Israel IV: Caesarea and Haifa

To catch you up to speed, check out these earlier posts about my trip:
Israel I: Modern Tel Aviv
Israel II: Jaffa (the Old City)
Israel III: Modern Art and Bauhaus Architecture
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After spending two days in Tel Aviv, it was time to start our loop around the northern part of the country. We rented a car using a rental company that is based in the lobby of the Tel Aviv Hilton (that makes it easy!) and loaded up the car to head north. After spending our first 2 days in Tel Aviv using taxis, I think we were all a little nervous about how driving would work here. They have similar signs and there’s usually an English translation so I wasn’t worried about that… but the drivers were very aggressive and often jumping from lane to lane (or just driving down the center). But once we were outside of the city, it became a lot more like driving in America.

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Before we knew it, we were in Caesarea. HERE‘s a map of out journey. We parked at the Caesarea Maritima and made our way into this fortress. You have to pay to get in, although I can’t remember the price it couldn’t have been much.

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This fort has such a history and it’s a large piece of land which currently has shops, restaurants, and of course the ruins to explore. I highly recommend the free video telling the history of the land, which we saw in the building on the left above. It has been conquered and changed so many times throughout history and the video helps you see how it looked during each period of time.

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Above you can see the ruins extend out into the harbor. On the other side of the harbor (not pictured) you can see archeologists actively digging and unearthing more ruins.

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After watching the video of it’s history, we explored the ruins. It’s such a maze of passageways along the coast.

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You can see the modern buildings built over the ruins to make this a true destination for tourists.

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Ruins, ruins, ruins…

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We made our way over to the theatre, exploring the ruins.

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After we had our fill of ruins we made our way over to one of the cafes. I had a traditional Israeli egg dish, shakshuka, which I had seen on many menus since arriving in Tel Aviv. HERE‘s a great recipe for it on Smitten Kitchen. Humus, coffee and shakshuka, yuuuum.

Once we had our fill we got back in the car and made THIS trek more up north to Haifa. Since it gets dark so early (like 3:30/4ish) we were trying to move quickly, as we still have a few more places to see before we were at our hotel in Tiberias.

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We went directly to the Bahai World Centre in Haifa. It’s gardens are on Mount Carmel which gives great views of the city. The gardens were closed when we arrived, but you can see how beautiful and well manicured they are.

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In a way, I think it was good we couldn’t go into the gardens because it meant the photos I have are all tourist free. While we were taking photos from the top of the garden many buses of tourists arrived and were also taking photos. It’s a Haifa must-see spot.

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Okay, so one tourist got in my photo-me! I didn’t take many photos of myself on the trip, but I love the view from the top so I had to take one.

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Beautiful gardens overlooking Haifa… be sure to stop here if you’re in Haifa.

Next up, we rush up to Acre (Akko) to see the city before the sun fully sets. Then in the dark we make our way to our hotel in Tiberias.

Israel III: Modern Art and Bauhaus Architecture

To catch you up to speed, check out these earlier posts about my trip:
Israel I: Modern Tel Aviv
Israel II: Jaffa (the Old City)
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After exploring Jaffa, we made our way to the center of the modern side of Tel Aviv to visit the Tel Aviv Museum of Art.

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The Museum has a modern addition above. It’s a bit disorienting, but still fun to explore.

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None of the walls meet at 90 degrees. I do not envy the person who had to draw these sections and elevations. The art in the museum was interesting and after an hour (we were on a tight schedule) we finished at the museum and walked in the sprinkling rain to Dizengoff Square, where we were the day before.

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Yesterday when we were here we stopped into the Bauhaus Center, but didn’t have time to do the walking tour. Today was our “museum day” so we hoped to get in the tour before the sun went down. The sun sets very early this time of year in Israel, so we had to rush.

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I think my architect uncle and I expected that the Bauhaus buildings would be well maintained and an expensive place to live given their architectural significance. We were wrong. Many of the buildings needed a lot of help and you could tell they were affordably priced.

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Each had interesting features and all the buildings were unique. Sure enough we had to complete this tour in the dark. Night is not the best time to be taking pictures of peoples homes, and I now understand this: daytime photos of homes= thoughtful person admiring design, nighttime photos of homes=who is this peeping tom!? Lesson learned, start the walking tour around 2pm instead of 3:30pm.

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The walking tour looped back to the Bauhaus Center in Dizengoff Square and we got to see this Agam sculpture in the middle of the square lit up at night. We had to rush off because we had dinner reservations at Popina in the Neve Tzedek neighborhood. It was an excellent meal and I highly recommend this place to people visiting Tel Aviv!

Check back in soon to hear about day 3 in Israel where we rent a car and drive up the coast.

Israel II: Jaffa (the Old City)

To catch you up to speed, check out these earlier posts about my trip:
Israel I: Modern Tel Aviv
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After spending day one of our trip running around Carmel Market and modern Tel Aviv, we rejoined Andy and Brian on day two to experience more of their neighborhood, Neve Tzedek, and meander down to the old city of Jaffa.

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This photo above was taken at 8am outside of the Hilton along the promenade. I did a quick walk before breakfast, as I like seeing cities wake up. Little did I know that at 8am on Saturday, the promenade would be filled with walkers of all ages. Very impressive. Also  we had beautiful 75 degree weather.

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After breakfast we met up with Andy and Brian in Neve Tzedek and walked around their neighborhood a bit. Above is an example of what the homes looked like: beautifully run-down buildings with colorful courtyards.

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We cut through the Suzanne Dellal Center for Dance and Theatre (which was a well manicured outdoor space) and made our way over to the HaTahana (The Train Station Complex) which was also a well taken care of property. The buildings look newly restored and there are cute shops and cafes.

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We walking through the plaza and cut over to the promenade to continue on to the old city by the water. What a lovely day for November. TelAviv22

The graffiti is fun in Tel Aviv, and by the beach is no exception. It’s the last supper with famous Jews. It’s on a broken piece of wall by the water.

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On our way to Jaffa!

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In Jaffa looking back north at Tel Aviv. You can see our hotel several miles up the coast.

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The Jaffa port is beautiful and a fun area to walk around. There are tons of venders and shops along the water.

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We ended up eating lunch with a view of the water right in the port at Old Man and The Sea. It was my first time having mezze. This is where they place a bunch of small plates of food in front of you and then you order a main protein. Personally, the 20 small constantly refilled dishes is enough to fill up anyone, but you need to order a fish or meat as the main meal. Many restaurants serve this type of meal with varying quantities of food. This was my favorite (and first) mezze experience on the whole trip. The dishes were falafel, and avocado, and different types of hummus, and salads… and so on.

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After the meal, we meandered around Jaffa exploring it’s history.

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It was very photogenic and felt very old compared to all the places we saw in Tel Aviv our first day (duh- it’s the old city). But seeing this gave a nice taste of what was to come in Jerusalem later on in the trip.

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I just love the stone pathways. Also, there are cats everywhere. Every single place. All over Israel and Istanbul. Funny enough, I only saw a few dogs (even as peoples pets) yet we saw probably a million stray cats.

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In Jaffa, it is easy to imagine the history as it’s right there in ruins in front of you. Since most of Tel Aviv is so modern, this really was our first taste of “oh wait- Jesus was here? Kings? Rulers?”

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Above is St. Peter’s Church in Jaffa. According to Wikipedia, Napoleon lived in two of its rooms in 1977 and also has Biblical sinificance. Unfortunately we went the one time it was closed and given our tight schedule we had to keep moving along.

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On we went through Jaffa before we eventually cabbed it across Tel Aviv to see an artsier side of Tel Aviv. Up next, Israel III: Modern Art and Bauhaus Architecture.